Jump Ring Making Kit

(Transcribed by TurboScribe.ai. Go Unlimited to remove this message.) This is a jump ring making kit. With it, and a couple of the tools, you'll never have to wait for jump rings in the mail again. In this kit, you get a jump ring cutting guide, which you can attach directly to a table, or perhaps to a piece of wood that you clamp to the table. You're going to get four screws for holding that on. You're going to get 28 dowels for wrapping the wire around to make coils that you're going to cut with the guide, and a sheet which gives you conversions from inches to millimeters, so that you can tell what size jump rings you're making inside and out. Let's go ahead and screw this down to the wood with the screws that are included. Otherwise, we could attach it to the table. Be sure that this piece is hanging over the edge of your table or your block, so that your saw has clearance. Next, I'm going to prepare my jump ring cutting block, so that it's attached well to the table with this clamp. Then I'm going to take and find the drill bit that I, I'm sorry, next I'm going to find the dowel that I want. So on my chart here, I can see that I want a four millimeter and I've got 20 gauge wire, so four millimeter over here, 3.97 is four millimeter, so that means that the dowel that I need is going to be a 5-30 seconds. I have cut about 12 inches of 20 gauge brass wire and straightened it a little bit by hand. And then I've bent over the end by about a half to three quarters of an inch, so that I can insert into the drill. The drill now is going counterclockwise. If you're looking at it from this direction, and I'm going to slide this, has a 5-30 seconds drill, which is four millimeters. I'm going to slide this into it, like so, set it on the block, get it started a little bit. Then I'm going to very carefully hang on to it with my pliers on the opposite end and start twisting. I'm going to kind of go slow and keep it out there where I'm just barely letting the wire feed into it. I'm keeping a little tension on it, coming right up to the last second, and I'll let it go and hopefully get that last little bit on there. There we go. So there's about one inch of four millimeter coil. I'm going to clean my end off on both ends. I could use a smaller plier for that and set that there for a second. Then we're going to grab our saw. On the saw blade we're going to take and release the one end on this end so that it stays straighter. We're just going to put our coil of wire up onto that saw blade. Then we're going to put our saw blade back into the saw and snug it up. Now that we released the tension on it, we're going to have to tighten the whole blade back up again. So I'm going to set this on here like so. I'm going to pull down on my handle and then reset the tension there and snug it up. Now I should have a blade that pings. Not very much, so I'll tighten it up some because a blade that doesn't ping is going to be a blade that breaks on you. This is stopping it from pinging a little bit. This is slowing down the sound, but I can tell it's there. That's pretty tight. All right, now we're going to slide this into the jig or the jump ring cutting guide. Then I'm going to take another dowel and I'm going to set it on the mat on the ring like so. I'm going to push this direction on this dowel. That's going to keep this solid up against here. Then I'm going to actually push down my thumb here like that too. So this will be a combination like so. Then I'll start cutting. As I cut, letting the saw do the work, trying to keep tension on both of these things. The extra little dowel I've laid on top and on my thumb. As this cuts, we should get deeper and deeper into it. When it cuts through a few of them and starts hanging up on you, then you might want to tighten your clamp if you have to and get your ring out of there and drop the rings off or get them out of the socket. But whatever you do, you got to go back in the same spot where you're cutting. So it should be right there where the ring stops. My preferred method is to not stop. You can keep from it. A lot of times I don't even use that dowel. I just use my fingers and push down and towards me. The farther in you get, the more angle you can get. You want to prevent, try not to cut into the board. But as it starts to hang up on you, you may want to remove some of your rings again. And then again, get that blade up against the edge of it. See, I've got this, where it's cut there, it's going right up against the blade when I put down in there. That way I'll always be back in the same spot. If you go too fast and too hard, it may get hot on you. And if that's the case, just slow down. Maybe stop and take some more rings out of there. Ideally, it would be nice to get to all of them. If you're worried about getting cut, you can put a little piece of tape on your finger or something like that. I have not gotten cut with doing this before, but I can see how it'd be possible. If you start cutting the board underneath, it means that you need to take some jump rings out because you don't want it to get stuck. It's easy to get stuck on that board and hang up and break your blade. Otherwise, it goes pretty fast and pretty well. Sometimes you can tell if you're into the board underneath because of the way it feels. And it's stuck in place. That's good. So let's flip it back in there. I usually put a paper towel on my lap to catch them in case they fall off the edge. Or if I've got an apron on at the time. Let's see if I can get that last little bit. Be nice if I could. I think I got it. Looks like they're all the way through. I was cutting even into the other side already. But for the most part, that's a really good way to get 20 or 30 jump rings quickly.

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